Flora, Fauna & Geology
Geology and landforms
The spectacular scenery along the Cape to Cape Track is due largely to the geology of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste Ridge, and the subsequent weathering and erosion of its different rocks.
As you walk along the coast, the views are of alternating rugged granite headlands, sheer limestone cliffs and long stretches of wild, sandy beaches backed by extensive dune systems. The two main rock types of which the ridge is made are vastly different in form and age. The basement of the Ridge is a combination of granite, gneis and other hard, metamorphic rocks, which are between 1500 and 600 million years old. These underlying rocks are very resistant to erosion, forming most of the capes and headlands that you pass. Lying directly on top of much of the western side of the ridge is the Tamala Limestone, a much younger rock that has consolidated from wind-blown sand dune deposits over just the last 2 million years. This has been worn to a low, smooth beach-line along much of the coast, but still forms high, crumbling cliffs in places.
Many streams, and the larger Margaret River, still flow westwards to the coast, having maintained their original courses as the dunes built up. They flow strongly through the wet winter and spring, but most dry up completely in summer. Sandbars then form where they meet the ocean, making coastal walking much easier at this time of year. The limestone is highly permeable and much drainage runs underground, especially in the southern half of the ridge, where it is thickest and widest. Extensive and beautifully decorated cave systems have been carved out, and several within easy reach of the Track are open to the public. Springs occur near the coast at the granite-limestone interface, but only a few flow all year round. Water is very limited on the Cape to Cape Track.
The spectacular scenery along the Cape to Cape Track is due largely to the geology of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste Ridge, and the subsequent weathering and erosion of its different rocks.
As you walk along the coast, the views are of alternating rugged granite headlands, sheer limestone cliffs and long stretches of wild, sandy beaches backed by extensive dune systems. The two main rock types of which the ridge is made are vastly different in form and age. The basement of the Ridge is a combination of granite, gneis and other hard, metamorphic rocks, which are between 1500 and 600 million years old. These underlying rocks are very resistant to erosion, forming most of the capes and headlands that you pass. Lying directly on top of much of the western side of the ridge is the Tamala Limestone, a much younger rock that has consolidated from wind-blown sand dune deposits over just the last 2 million years. This has been worn to a low, smooth beach-line along much of the coast, but still forms high, crumbling cliffs in places.
Many streams, and the larger Margaret River, still flow westwards to the coast, having maintained their original courses as the dunes built up. They flow strongly through the wet winter and spring, but most dry up completely in summer. Sandbars then form where they meet the ocean, making coastal walking much easier at this time of year. The limestone is highly permeable and much drainage runs underground, especially in the southern half of the ridge, where it is thickest and widest. Extensive and beautifully decorated cave systems have been carved out, and several within easy reach of the Track are open to the public. Springs occur near the coast at the granite-limestone interface, but only a few flow all year round. Water is very limited on the Cape to Cape Track.
Flora
One of the delights of walking the Cape to Cape Track is the variety of vegetation through which you pass. Rather than simply following the coast all the way, the Track loops inland in several places, taking you over the ridge and through different types of woodland and forest.
Dense coastal heath dominates the windswept, western slopes. Pink pimelea, yellow buttercups (Hibbertia sp.) and wattles (Acacia sp.), blue fan-flower (Scaevola sp.), white beard-heaths (Leucopogon sp.) and red cockies’ tongues (Templetonia retusa) are just a few of the common flowers of the heathland. Woody species such as Rottnest tea-tree (Melaleuca lanceolata) and peppermint (Agonis flexuosa) may be pruned to less than a metre on exposed sites, but grow into tall shrubs or trees in gullies and sheltered locations.
On the sheltered, eastern side of the ridge, the country is more wooded with jarrah-marri(Eucalyptus marginata and Corymbia calophylla) mixed with sheoak (Allocasuarina fraseriana) woodland common in the northern half, and magnificent karri (Eucalyptus diversicolor) forest in the south. Sandy heathland on the east side of the ridge may be dominated by holly-leaved banksia (B. ilicifolia) or candle banksia (B. attenuata) and sheoak. Peppermint forms thickets or open groves all along the ridge, while bullich (Eucalyptus megacarpa) and yate (E. cornuta) are plentiful in some areas.
Climbing plants are a major feature of both forest and the coastal heath. Purple wistaria (Hardenbergia comptoniana), red coral vine (Kennedia coccinea) and white clematis (Clematis pubescens) are the most noticeable, adding vivid
splashes of colour to the bush in spring. You can also find many species of orchids beneath the forest canopy and shrub layer if you look closely. Although most flower in spring, there are species that flower most months of the year,
though it may take observant eyes to spot them.
One of the delights of walking the Cape to Cape Track is the variety of vegetation through which you pass. Rather than simply following the coast all the way, the Track loops inland in several places, taking you over the ridge and through different types of woodland and forest.
Dense coastal heath dominates the windswept, western slopes. Pink pimelea, yellow buttercups (Hibbertia sp.) and wattles (Acacia sp.), blue fan-flower (Scaevola sp.), white beard-heaths (Leucopogon sp.) and red cockies’ tongues (Templetonia retusa) are just a few of the common flowers of the heathland. Woody species such as Rottnest tea-tree (Melaleuca lanceolata) and peppermint (Agonis flexuosa) may be pruned to less than a metre on exposed sites, but grow into tall shrubs or trees in gullies and sheltered locations.
On the sheltered, eastern side of the ridge, the country is more wooded with jarrah-marri(Eucalyptus marginata and Corymbia calophylla) mixed with sheoak (Allocasuarina fraseriana) woodland common in the northern half, and magnificent karri (Eucalyptus diversicolor) forest in the south. Sandy heathland on the east side of the ridge may be dominated by holly-leaved banksia (B. ilicifolia) or candle banksia (B. attenuata) and sheoak. Peppermint forms thickets or open groves all along the ridge, while bullich (Eucalyptus megacarpa) and yate (E. cornuta) are plentiful in some areas.
Climbing plants are a major feature of both forest and the coastal heath. Purple wistaria (Hardenbergia comptoniana), red coral vine (Kennedia coccinea) and white clematis (Clematis pubescens) are the most noticeable, adding vivid
splashes of colour to the bush in spring. You can also find many species of orchids beneath the forest canopy and shrub layer if you look closely. Although most flower in spring, there are species that flower most months of the year,
though it may take observant eyes to spot them.
Fauna
Many animals of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste Ridge are nocturnal, and the track can be a quiet place during the day. Birds are the most noticeable, and colourful residents, especially in early morning and late afternoon, when the small heathland birds are most vocal. Splendid and red-winged wrens, scarlet, white-breasted and yellow robins, golden whistlers, New Holland honeyeaters and spinebills are easily identified, and you may be lucky enough to spot a red-eared firetail or an emu-wren. Parrots, such as the 28s, western rosellas and long-billed and red-tailed black cockatoos, are colourful and noisy. Purple-crowned lorikeets make a great racket in the tree tops when the karri is in flower, but you need to look carefully to spot groups of rock parrots along the coast, which are more secretive.
Birds of prey to look out for along the cliffs include the small nankeen kestrel, hobbies and brown falcons. Ospreys are a familiar sight around Cape Mentelle. Many shore birds inhabit the rocks and beaches, such as cormorants, oystercatchers, reef herons, and red-capped plovers, as well as the endangered hooded plovers which are still often seen along the beaches of the Capes. Keep your eyes open, though, for all sorts of unexpected visitors, which may touch down for a rest on their migrations.
On warm days the open tracks make ideal sunning spots for lizards and snakes. They generally feel your vibrations and scuttle away, but be cautious especially in early spring when snakes may be sluggish. Dugites and tiger snakes are common and should be given a wide berth. The non-venomous carpet python however, recognised by its broad head and beautifully mottled markings, is a rare treat for walkers. Bobtail lizards are often encountered, and the large southern heath monitor is common, though less often seen. Shiny black King’s skinks enjoy basking on the rocks, and western bearded dragons soak up sun on the sandy tracks.
Small mammals are making a come-back in many areas due to the success of the Parks and Wildlife Service Western Shield program, which controls introduced foxes by baiting with 1080, a poison occurring naturally in a group of native peas. Your chances of spotting a southern brown bandicoot, quenda, along the Track are increasing, and watch out at night for the brush-tailed phasgogale or even a chuditch. There are ring-tailed possums in some places, but brush-tailed possums are more common and are regular visitors to forest campsites. Western grey kangaroos are plentiful and often flushed from their resting places during the day.
Out to sea, look for dolphins from the cliff-tops at any season, and whales through winter and spring. Humpbacks and southern right whales are increasing in number every year along the Capes coast.
For more information on the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, and the natural history of SW Western Australia, go to the website of the Department of Parks and Wildlife at http://www.dbca.wa.gov.au
Many animals of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste Ridge are nocturnal, and the track can be a quiet place during the day. Birds are the most noticeable, and colourful residents, especially in early morning and late afternoon, when the small heathland birds are most vocal. Splendid and red-winged wrens, scarlet, white-breasted and yellow robins, golden whistlers, New Holland honeyeaters and spinebills are easily identified, and you may be lucky enough to spot a red-eared firetail or an emu-wren. Parrots, such as the 28s, western rosellas and long-billed and red-tailed black cockatoos, are colourful and noisy. Purple-crowned lorikeets make a great racket in the tree tops when the karri is in flower, but you need to look carefully to spot groups of rock parrots along the coast, which are more secretive.
Birds of prey to look out for along the cliffs include the small nankeen kestrel, hobbies and brown falcons. Ospreys are a familiar sight around Cape Mentelle. Many shore birds inhabit the rocks and beaches, such as cormorants, oystercatchers, reef herons, and red-capped plovers, as well as the endangered hooded plovers which are still often seen along the beaches of the Capes. Keep your eyes open, though, for all sorts of unexpected visitors, which may touch down for a rest on their migrations.
On warm days the open tracks make ideal sunning spots for lizards and snakes. They generally feel your vibrations and scuttle away, but be cautious especially in early spring when snakes may be sluggish. Dugites and tiger snakes are common and should be given a wide berth. The non-venomous carpet python however, recognised by its broad head and beautifully mottled markings, is a rare treat for walkers. Bobtail lizards are often encountered, and the large southern heath monitor is common, though less often seen. Shiny black King’s skinks enjoy basking on the rocks, and western bearded dragons soak up sun on the sandy tracks.
Small mammals are making a come-back in many areas due to the success of the Parks and Wildlife Service Western Shield program, which controls introduced foxes by baiting with 1080, a poison occurring naturally in a group of native peas. Your chances of spotting a southern brown bandicoot, quenda, along the Track are increasing, and watch out at night for the brush-tailed phasgogale or even a chuditch. There are ring-tailed possums in some places, but brush-tailed possums are more common and are regular visitors to forest campsites. Western grey kangaroos are plentiful and often flushed from their resting places during the day.
Out to sea, look for dolphins from the cliff-tops at any season, and whales through winter and spring. Humpbacks and southern right whales are increasing in number every year along the Capes coast.
For more information on the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, and the natural history of SW Western Australia, go to the website of the Department of Parks and Wildlife at http://www.dbca.wa.gov.au